It started off as a celebration of English culture back in 1974, complete with flower arranging shows and tastefully decorous music.
Mercifully, more than 30 years later, the Grahamstown festival has grown to encompass just about every culture, artform and most of the languages you can find in South Africa.
Today the National Arts Festival is not only the biggest showcase for the arts in the country, but also the region's biggest money-spinning event.
Forget the white elephant that Coega is turning out to be; this is the place to be.
It's not only the artsy fartsy types that descend on the usually sleepy little town, but also vendors, chancers and those of us in search of some real entertainment.
Affectionately known as Festinos, we descend on the town in our thousands. We cause traffic jams, sleep in any nook where we can lay down our hung-over heads, and generally just gawk at the sheer level of artistry displayed by the performers.
This behaviour is tolerated by the locals because, well, they know we'll be gone in 10 days. Plus, there's money to be made, whether it's through providing accommodation, selling food or actually performing.
In a region where unemployment is best described as rampant, there's a hint of quiet desperation in the air.
But, for the most part it's easy for us Festinos to gloss over because we get caught up in the talent that is displayed in everything from churches to school halls and street corners.
Dancers challenge our perceptions, actors dare us to confront our prejudices and we laugh at the comedians and lap up the artwork.
All the while the streetkids with their painted faces are standing on the street corners.
- The Grahamstown festival ends this Saturday.
